I enjoyed tasting this remarkable expression of vintage at Yalumba’s Rare & Fine release tasting in London with Kevin Glastonbury, Yalumba’s Senior Red Winemaker (which tasting I reported in full here for Decanter).  As he observed, compared with other vintages, the 2012 “is stylistically very different – not as rich as a Grenache would normally be.”  It has made for a strikingly precise, tightly wound Barossa Grenache – very poised.  Glastonbury puts it down to two factors.  First, the vines were compensating – getting back to normal – after 2011 and 2010.  In 2012, they produced less fruit and, picked earlier than 2010, the wine was better balanced.  Second since, he said, the 2011 Tricentenary Grenache was a benchmark for lots of people, going forward the aim was to continue making this Grenache at the restrained end of spectrum – “picked on the leaner side, for better acid and balance…not as rich and full across the palate.”  Eschewing whole bunch fermentation (a new Yalumba mid-range Vine Vale Grenache explores this style) and ageing it in used 300l hogsheads keeps the aromatics varietal (florals and subtle Turkish Delight) and the focus on its juicy black fruit and old vine (planted 1889) savoury, spicy tannins.  Hugely persistent.  Terrific.  Though smooth and delicate enough to accompany hand-dived Orkney scallops with cauliflower puree (not the first time I’ve enjoyed Aussie Grenache with scallops), I’d cellar it for a couple of years to let those spices unfurl.  13.5%  N.B. That benchmark, game-changing 2011 vintage is currently on deal via Amazon down from £36.99 to £30.01 Contact UK importer Fells for details of 2012 stockists.