Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling 2009 – “Yquek” it out if you can!
Classic Australian Riesling is, like the classic clothing line, driza-bone, but there’s a growing niche of sweeter styles. Yesterday, I wrote up Jeffrey Grosset’s maiden Off-Dry Riesling. Today, the focus is on the 2009 vintage of his partner, Stephanie Toole’s, Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling, a single vineyard sweetie from Toole’s Auburn vineyard. It proved a fitting finale for Monday’s epic winemaker dinner at The Wapping Project art gallery-cum-restaurant, whose wine list champions Australia.
Though perhaps not as well known as De Bortoli’s Noble One, it’s one of Australia’s leading dessert wines and, like Noble One, it’s no “sticky.” As you might expect from the variety and Clare Valley, its place of origin, it sports terrific lime and line. Clear as a bell on nose and palate, Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling 2009 is remarkably fleet of foot, with a sublime balance to its intense, honeyed lime fruit.
A clean pair of heels on the finish makes a glass of Cordon Cut an unputdownable experience, as many of my fellow diners discovered. As Toole (pictured) drily put it to me when I visited a couple of years ago, “it may only be a sweet wine, but then so’s Yquem.” It costs £19.99 (half bottle) at Liberty Wines.