Australia’s wine revolution part 1 – the Rosé Revolution
Australia is undergoing a wine revolution as it struggles to shake off its seriously out-of-date sunshine in a bottle image and seeks to re-define itself to the world.
You might not think rosé is a good place to start but then the Rosé Revolution, launched today (Rosé Day) by Leanne de Bortoli and her husband Steve Webber, is about a drier textural style of rosé which, she says, “can be a serious wine, but not to be taken too seriously.” So expect it to be “purpose-made” as opposed to the by-product of a red wine and paler in colour than the very pink, irridescent varieties for which I can find no better flavour description than “pink,” and which are to wine what the frankfurter is to sausages!
Australia is, of course, on the brink of summer so the prospect of chilling with a rosé works better there than here in snowy London, but if I was to single out a rosé I’d very happily knock back, even today, it would be Arrivo Rosato di Nebbiolo which, for me, encapsulates the wider revolution that is going on in Australia. Yep, Australia is red hot at it forging new styles of wine made from existing and alternative grape varieties like Nebbiolo and focused on structure and texture at least as much as fruit. Thanks go to Matt Skinner for introducing me to its clasp of (ripe) tannin and pure and simple ‘Nebbiolo-ness’ at a tasting of “off piste,” revolutionary Aussie wines – see here for my report.
Arrivo Rosato di Nebbiolo 2009, (Adelaide Hills) – a lovely firmly textured, dry rose with rose petal and dark chocolate hints to its pretty cherry fruit. Tensile, with good freshness – just loved that texture. From an elevated vineyard at 450m, fermented on the skins and aged for 4 months on the lees.
And watch this space Friday for Australia’s wine revolution Part 2.