In synch at Si Vintners
I guess the clue is in the name. How in synch are Sarah Morris and Iwo Jakimowicz, the winemaking couple behind Si Vintners. I hadn’t seen the two of them since our first meeting in Margaret River in 2104, so it was good to catch up at The Real Wine Fair and see what the creative pair have been cooking up. With a bit of help from Australian wine writer Mike Bennie with Baba Yaga, it transpires.
Here are my picks of the line up. All wines are made with no fining or filtering; and no additions save for, in some wines, a small amount of sulphur at bottling. The wines are imported into the UK by Les Caves de Pyrene.
Si Vintners Baba Yaga 2015 (Margaret River)
Bennie served as the inspiration for this rosé which, like a Portuguese Palhete, is a blend of white and red grapes (with just a few whole bunches of red stirred into the pot). In Margaret River, no prizes for guessing which – Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. I liked this against my better judgement meaning, despite baulking at the whackiness, I set my aside my preconceptions and jumped in. Fermented on skins and unfiltered, this cloudy rosé opens with a flourish of passionfruit, which soon kicks back to reveal a more yielding, evolved profile of orange peel with a hint of catering chocolate, before tapering, the finish a nutty spine. Nutty in every sense, but with enough interest, texture and flow (juice) to engage the buds (taste) and cells (brain).
Si Vintners Lello 2015 (Margaret River)
This is a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, each fermented separately then aged in puncheons for 12 months, with no sulphur. It put me in mind of Masterchef finalist Giovanna Ryan’s triumphant take on lemon meringue pie, with candied rosemary. It has the sweet but pungent dried herbs, lemon curd and nutty (blow torched) meringue, with a zesty note of, well, lime zest. Lovely structure, layer and length. A unique take on Western Australia’s Classic White blend.
Si Vintners Cachorro Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Margaret River)
Morris’ and Jakimowicz’s take on Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon is refreshing too. I was thrilled to discover their 2015 Red on the wine list at Dedham’s The Sun Inn yesterday (terrific food & wine list, sharply priced). Perfect, I thought, for my dad’s lamb chops with spicy lentils and beetroot. But they were out of stock! Cachorro, sourced from younger Cabernet vines, would have fitted the bill even better. Like the Lello, it is leveraged with layer upon layer of flavour, here delivered with striking levity despite its savoury balsamic, earth and gravel undertones. Vivid fresh blackcurrant and blueberry fruit lingers prettily on a persistent, slinky finish wreathed in fresh herbs. This extended skin maceration medium-bodied Cabernet sees no oak (it was fermented and aged in concrete). 13.5%